Sunday, January 19, 2014

This season’s Balmain will be an A+ choice if you’re a sylphlike 19-year-old, but it probably doesn’t have much of an audience outside of that specific demographic.

Balmain are way better known for their womenswear, which usually cleaves close to the formula of very shiny, detailed dresses and short, tailored jackets. I find their menswear a little harder to pin down. The best descriptor I can think of is that their mens’ clothing looks A LOT like it should be worn by a K-pop boyband, possibly thanks to the overabundance of slim, decorated jackets and boyish models. — Fall 2014 Menswear at HelloTailor

Thursday, February 7, 2013

The main on-trend detail was the lack of tie, which in this instance actually worked quite well. First of all, a full suit, buttoned to the neck but without a necktie, is traditionally the outfit of nebbish weirdos — which fits in perfectly with the unsettling, serial-killerish vibe of this collection. Secondly,  these suits are far more mature than the typical buttoned-to-the-collar shirt outfits we’ve been seeing on the catwalks (and on hipster guys. And Jonny Lee Miller’s Sherlock Holmes.) for the past year or so.

There’s a trick to wearing a collared shirt with no tie, and it’s mostly to do with the shape and spread of the collar. As a rule, the distance between the points of the collar should correspond with the width of the tie, meaning that wider ties go with collars that spread out at a wider angle, and so on. If you think about it, this makes sense because the closer together the points of the collar, the less room there is for a tie. If you look at the shirts in this McQueen show, the collars are all long and thin, and point almost directly downwards. If you were to wear a tie with these shirts, there would barely be enough room for the knot. — Fall 2013 Menswear: Alexander McQueen.

Monday, January 28, 2013

There was something almost inhuman about the cleanliness of this show. Even the models wearing warm-weather gear looked as if they might not have a natural pulse, or were crafted entirely from plastic. — Fall 2013 Menswear: Dior Homme and the Illuminati.

Sunday, January 27, 2013

For whatever reason, Illuminati-inspired triangles are everywhere at the moment. Look up “Illuminati" on Tumblr, and half the tag is full of hipster teens taking pictures of themselves making triangle symbols with their hands. Ke$ha’s latest music video was a mess of triangle/Illuminati imagery. There is even a subReddit for triangle enthusiasts. Dior Homme has taken this idea to its cleanest, most formalised extreme, with a single geometric pattern emblazoned across the chest and arms of several outfits in this season’s show. — Fall 2013 Menswear: Dior Homme and the Illuminati.

Thursday, January 10, 2013

In a way, I almost feel like I have to defend this show. It’s not uncommon for either menswear or womenswear collections to feature one “extreme” accessory like a mask or hat, but have the rest of the outfits look perfectly reasonable. Taken individually, most of Craig Green’s designs have a definite appeal — especially the patchy sweaters and striped trousers, which show signs of a Yohji Yamamoto-like talent for rugged texture-mixing.  — Menswear Fashion Week, Fall 2013: Agi & Sam, Astrid Anders, and Craig Green

With some predictability, this was my favourite outfit of the collection. The cut of the suit is sleek and dapper, and the studiously bland jacket balances out the loud patterns of the trousers and waistcoat. Also, this is a rare moment when I can get onboard with the trend of men buttoning their top buttons but not wearing a tie, because in this particular case another colour or print would have overloaded the overall look. — Menswear Fashion Week, Fall 2013: Agi & Sam, Astrid Anders, and Craig Green

Cartoonish exaggeration is pretty much the only context in which I can muster any interest in sportswear. Astrid Anderson’s designs, partially made from mink, are just about glam enough to make the grade — particularly since they’re paired with gold lipstick.  — Menswear Fashion Week, Fall 2013: Agi & Sam, Astrid Anders, and Craig Green

Wednesday, January 9, 2013

A couple of Agi & Sam facts:

  1. Their ideal design client is Ace Ventura: Pet Detective.
  2. Their inspiration for this season’s collection was Alexander George Thynn, Seventh Marquess of Bath (pictured above).

Menswear Fashion Week, Fall 2013: Agi & Sam, Astrid Anders, and Craig Green

Friday, July 6, 2012 Thursday, July 5, 2012
JOHN GALLIANO’S NEW MENSWEAR COLLECTION IS THEMED AROUND SURREALIST ART so they just made a shirtless guy wear a lobster. — from Spring 2013 Menswear: Carven, Galliano, Demeulemeester, and McQueen.

JOHN GALLIANO’S NEW MENSWEAR COLLECTION IS THEMED AROUND SURREALIST ART so they just made a shirtless guy wear a lobster. — from Spring 2013 Menswear: Carven, Galliano, Demeulemeester, and McQueen.