Andreja Pejic’s life has already been tumultuous, spanning time in a Serbian refugee camp as a child, to becoming one of the most famous models in the world.
That alone would be enough to fuel one documentary, but the real hook is the uncertainty of Pejic’s future. The fashion world is notoriously fickle, and since many of Pejic’s most high-profile jobs played with the idea of her being a “male” model working with womenswear designers, it’s possible her career will wane now that she’s open about her gender identity.
As well as being a documentary about Pejic herself, Andrej(a) cannot avoid exploring the fashion industry’s current attitudes toward transgender individuals.
I have never been really good at playing a man! I can do it very easily for photoshoots, but it’s different from acting as a man on a daily basis. I really don’t think it is that different to be one or the other, but capitalist society does draw quite a big line that divides the genders, so these differences seem more exaggerated than they naturally are. Boys are expected to be a lot less emotional, tougher and I guess, somehow rough, where girls have a bit more freedom to express themselves physically, but less freedom mentally and overall because we live in a patriarchal society.
sparklyslug said: What are your thoughts on male models like Andrej Pejic modeling women's fashion? Because on the one hand I'm like, 'hell yeah subversion of gender presentation!' And on the other I sort of feel like this is just making beauty as fashion sees it more unattainable for female models, and by extension maybe even ladies in general.
well, there definitely aren’t enough male models like andrej pejic for them to be any real “danger” to female models. like, this isn’t a situation where male models are ~stealing the jobs~ of female models: it’s basically stunt-casting. while andrej pejic does have his niche, it’s not hugely common for male models to walk in womenswear shows, or to be used in womenswear photoshoots. it’s definitely more common than the reverse (ie, women walking in menswear shows, which is VANISHINGLY unusual), but that’s partly because the womenswear fashion industry is just bigger, meaning there’s more opportunities for androgynous male models like andrej pejic to cross the divide. also, women have way more leeway to experiment with androgynous dressing in general. it’s pretty normal for womenswear collections to include baggy or butch (ish) clothing, or a riff on menswear suits. but it’s rare to see menswear that directly references “femininity”, even in shows that include a bunch of skirts-for-men.
personally, i like andrej pejic and i enjoy it when fashion messes around with gender roles. however, i do understand the criticism that the FACT that andrej pejic can wear “womenswear” says something about the “ideal model body” in general. ie, that the body shape of most female catwalk models is very close to that of an adolescent boy. a thin male model can fit into womenswear because he has narrow hips and a narrow waist — and generally, it’s easier for young/adolescent men to maintain that type of physique than it is for women, who naturally have wider hips and a higher quota of body fat.
people like to talk about how andrej pejic is a ~feminine ideal~ which is obviously an exaggeration, but is still something to think about. while his face is very androgynous/pretty, his body is pretty typical of a slim-type male model, whereas a female catwalk model with an androgynous/butch face and typical female model body would have a way harder time achieving the level of success that he’s managed. male models range from skinny/gawky to muscular, while female catwalk models are far more formulaic: almost always super-thin, super-delicate, and often underage.
I knew that David Bowie had a great sense of humor about himself, but seeing that he hasn’t lost it in the many years since he last made an album is awesome.
both the song and the video are AMAZING.
I enjoyed this a lot, but I cannot follow the video at all. Too many people who look the same! Is everyone in this video played by either Bowie or Swinton? There are times when i’m like “oh that’s definitely Bowie” and times when I’m like “oh that’s definitely Swinton” but mostly I’m like “??????” so in conclusion I think this video doesn’t do anything at all to debunk the theory that Swinton and Bowie are secretly the same person. :D
The other two main people in the video are Andrej Pejic and Saskia de Brauw, each of whom are models known for their androgyny. In the video, they play the two young “stars” who up-end the bland suburban lifestyle of Tilda and Bowie. In real life, Andrej Pejic has made a career of appearing in both menswear and womenswear fashion shows and ad campaigns for high-end womenswear. At one point you see a third model, Iselin Steiro, dressed as a young david Bowie with short floppy red hair. No one in the video is played by David Bowie or Tilda Swinton except their main characters, the husband and wife! :)
It’s unclear whether Andrej Pejic’s first outfit was from the menswear or womenswear department — perhaps intentionally so. On one side it was a relatively average dinner-suit, but the other half was completely sheer with an elbow-length leather glove. Even the shape holds no clues, because this season Gaultier almost entirely abandoned his love of corsetry in favour of a looser, more masculine silhouette for the womenswear. Corsets, in fact, were only seen on the menswear designs, with slight hourglass silhouettes being added to the suit jackets through rigid structure-work and clever tailoring. — from Jean Paul Gaultier Couture: Dandies, Decadence, and George Sand.