Tuesday, February 11, 2014
Saturday, January 18, 2014

Glad to see that Belstaff has moved on from designing motorcycle jackets and Sherlock’s swishy coat and has now adopted “hipster Nazgul” as a style theme. — Fall 2014 Menswear at HelloTailor

Monday, September 23, 2013

I love the little flash of pleated underskirt in these outfits. REALLY hoping that this look somehow makes it to the high street, because, well… none of us are ever gonna be rich and thin enough for real-life Victoria Beckham. I took a look at her website a while ago, and even the bland, loose-fit dresses from her B-label are selling for like £900 each. Nooope.  — Spring 2014 Fashion Week: Victoria Beckham, Fausto Puglisi, Vivienne Westwood Red Label, and Chris Kane at HelloTailor.

You may be shocked to learn that Fausto Puglisi is a man. He also seems to be somewhat unfamiliar with the concept of breasts. Like for example, this “harness bra” (LOL) may have been manufactured by Tuscan saddlemakers, but that doesn’t mean it’s very well-designed as an item of boob regalia. Don’t get me wrong! It looks pretty cool, in a bondage/punk kinda way. But there are some things that are just so uncomfortable-looking that, even as a fashion nerd, I have to take a step back and say, “Steady on, pal.”

First of all, only a tiny fraction of the female population are flat-chested enough for this whole harness bra idea to be a remotely plausible life choice. Secondly, why would you put a tight leather buckle strap directly over your nipples? I guess it would be slightly better if worn over a shirt, but I’m pretty sure that would be the socks-and-sandles of the bra world, and therefore kind of a faux pas. — Spring 2014 Fashion Week: Victoria Beckham, Fausto Puglisi, Vivienne Westwood Red Label, and Chris Kane at HelloTailor.

A lot of the imagery in this collection was inspired by photosynthesis and cross-section diagrams of plants: a refreshing alternative to the unavoidable barrage of ~florals~ during Spring Fashion Week. If you’re not acknowledging the fact that you have a weird obsession with the sexual organs of a useless decorative plant, then I ain’t interested in your floral bullshit. — Spring 2014 Fashion Week: Victoria Beckham, Fausto Puglisi, Vivienne Westwood Red Label, and Chris Kane at HelloTailor.

Thursday, September 19, 2013

I’m always into any outfit that makes you look like an alien lizard-bug warrior queen, so naturally this show was A++ from my perspective. The crushed glass mosaics looked so sharp that they might easily have been made from actual crushed glass, while the neat silhouettes and simple hair/makeup balanced out the busy appearance of the fabrics. Also, I love the way Ford managed to make a bunch of tough-looking leather outfits that didn’t reference aviator jackets or (shudder) “biker chic”. When is someone gonna hire this guy to costume a sci-fi movie? — Spring 2014: Ralph Lauren, Theyskens’ Theory, Duro Olowu and Tom Ford.

Duro Olowu hasn’t changed much in the handful of years he’s been on the mainstream fashion circuit, but that doesn’t mean his designs don’t stand out. Probably because most bigger labels don’t tend to go for things like “1970s-inspired Nigerian print capes”. Cape on capin’ on, Duro Olowu. — Spring 2014: Ralph Lauren, Theyskens’ Theory, Duro Olowu and Tom Ford.

(Source: hellotailor.blogspot.co.uk)

I have mixed feelings on the topic of Ralph Lauren, mostly because I used to work for them and therefore lived through several months of semi-successful corporate brainwashing.

The purpose of Ralph Lauren clothes is to maintain a supposedly timeless preppy/equestrian/American royalty look, which primarily means a lot of v-neck sweaters, beige, faux prep schoolwear, and touches of feminised “menswear-inspired” shirts and blazers. The ideal Ralph Lauren woman is rich and vaguely sporty, but not really interested in “fashion” so much as interested in looking… rich and vaguely sporty. While other major labels like Dior and Chanel do rely on a certain amount of recycling in order to retain a recognisable brand style, Ralph Lauren is basically in a constant state of self-consumption. — Spring 2014: Ralph Lauren, Theyskens’ Theory, Duro Olowu and Tom Ford.

Tuesday, September 17, 2013

This collection was inspired by a ceramicist named Ken Price, who was a big fan of bright colours, abstract shapes and iridescent glazes. Refreshingly obscure compared to Prabal Gurung’s Monroe-free Marilyn Monroe show, plus when you google Ken Price you can definitely see where Pilotto was coming from.

Some of these outfits aren’t the most wearable (ie, navel-bearing button-down shirts are not for the faint hearted), but the colours are amazing and I’m really into the idea of modern crinolines. It’s not immediately obvious on all the dresses, but pretty much everything here has a flexible frame under the skirt, meaning that it’ll sway dramatically when the wearer is walking. — Spring 2014: The Row, J.W. Anderson, Prabal Gurung, and Peter Pilotto, at HelloTailor.

There was a lot of skin on show at J.W. Anderson, in that un-sexy fashion way that would nevertheless get you kicked out of most public space if you wore it in real life. Some interesting looks in general, but my fave was probably this dress that is literally a deflated car tire. — Spring 2014: The Row, J.W. Anderson, Prabal Gurung, and Peter Pilotto, at HelloTailor.